Sunday, May 25, 2014

La Sylphide, take 2

As I write this, I'm home in the beautiful paradise known as The Jersey Shore (and, no, it's nothing like the tv show.  Check my instagram feed for proof) for Memorial Day weekend, and hoping to catch up on a couple of undocumented makes.

First up is my La Sylphide Dress.  I made a lot of alterations to the pattern this time around, and the fit is definitely much better than it was in my first version.  If I make the dress version again, I'd like to take in about an inch from the back of the neck, and possible take out 1/2 inch horizontally from the bicep and upper back.   Thoughts?

The other thing that's kind of irking me is the necktie.  In these photos, I've folded it over.  I really like the way it looks here, so I think I may just tack it down so it stays that way.  If I don't fold it over it kind of sticks up around my neck in the back, which is just not a good look on me.  I haven't noticed this issue in other people's versions (and it wasn't an issue in my last version, which was much drapier) so I think it's just an issue of fabric choice and an extremely petite upper body.

I finished the hem with the narrow hem foot on my sewing machine (my new favorite toy) and I love the way it looks with the circle skirt.  I've been using my narrow hem foot on pretty much all of my summer makes this year, and I just love it .  So fast, easy, and awesome looking!  I was also really anal about the grainline since it's so noticeable, and I think it really made a difference in the way the skirt hangs.  It's just so swirly!

So wrinkly...totally wasn't this noticeable in person :)
For the most part, the button gaping is not an issue here, as the stiffer nature of the fabric is holding the placket together much better.  I may still go back and add in a hook and eye or a snap for security.  May.  As in I should but I probably won't.  It took me like a month to sew on regular buttons.

The last thing I want to note is that there is supposed to be some extra ease in this dress, which I eliminated by cutting a smaller size.  My waist is 75cm, and the recommended size is a S.  I cut an XS and there is still a couple of cms of ease in there for me.  I like my garments fitted, so if you do too, that's something too keep in mind :)

This hem is NOT even due to my curvier top.  I should probably start paying attention to that...I'm going with the whole high-low thing, though :)
All in all, I'm calling this one a success.  The fabric is awesome, and totally perfect for any sort of garment that needs both structure and drape.  I've already worn it a lot more than my top version because, hello, it's a dress.  I really love dresses and wear them a lot more than tops and bottoms over the summer months.  I'm definitely looking forward to making many more knit and woven sundresses as the weather gets warmer, so watch this space!

Pattern: La Sylphide from Papercut Patterns
Size: XS
Fabric: Cotton Chambray from Robert Kaufman
Alterations: 1/2in FBA
                   1in swayback
                   1/4in taken in from the shoulders


  1. LOVE THIS!!! It turned out amazing!! The skirt is so perfect, and I do like the necktie/band folded over with the bow - just perfect! Now if I will ever finish mine ;)

  2. Do it!! Then we can be twins! With a very large height disparity, that is :0)

  3. This dress really is marvelous. I have to be honest, I was crazy about it on the Papercut site but in that chambray it is just something else. Holy moly.

  4. Ooh it lucks lovely! Love that necktie detailing and the fit is something else! :)

  5. this dress looks great in the chambray! i'm pretty partial to chambray myself... love the stuff! i noticed that this pattern has you cut the necktie on the straight grain, which is probably why it feels stiff. if you're concerned about drape, i would cut it on the bias so it rolls nicely. but regardless, this is such a cute version of that pattern!

  6. I'm in love with your chambray version of this dress. It's odd that the collar decided to do something wonky, but I actually think I like it better with a little roll to it. It's almost like a little sailor collar that way. I also think that this looks really great with a fitted bodice. Based on the one photo of the rear, I think your assessment of removing 1/2 would perfect the fit, but overall, it looks like you've done really great editing to the original pattern to have it fit you 'just right'. I think this is definitely a success. And, I really want to make a dress like it, because I'm so envious. :-D

  7. Thank you so much! I could totally see that the sheer pale pink wouldn't be your style, but it's such a great pattern!

  8. Thanks! I tried really hard to get it to fit well :)

  9. That is such a great suggestion, and makes SO much sense! I'm going to try that for all further neckties!

  10. I'm liking the roll the more I look at it, it was just frustrating when I wanted it to do something different. Let me know if you want to borrow anything from my stash at the next meetup :)